Pistachios
There is a certain kind of footwear I have seen in just two environs. My experience of this type of footwear in each of these places couldn’t be farther apart, at least in the spaces they occupy in my psyche. I first encountered the “espadrille,” a simple, cloth loafer, used mostly for the beach as an alternative to the much more ubiquitous sandal in southern France, in the summer of 1969. When I last encountered it, it was as the institutional footwear worn by inmates at the California Penal System, and I was wearing them for the second time in my life. (For years, because I could not quite remember the French word for them, the few times that they re-entered my consciousness, I called them “pistachios.” In prison I was told they are called "flapjacks.")
We were spending the summer at a lake in the Massif Central, camping on the property of a farmer. My mother had taken my two brothers, two sisters, and me to visit her sister, Francoise, who was with her brood of four, and together we were matched by the ten Cambournacs. They were best friends and neighbors of my aunt, consisted of eight kids helmed by parents Claude and Colette.
If the Kennedys had been French and middle class, they would have been the Cambournacs. And though they sort of knew they were a good-looking, athletic brood, they carried the awareness with an unself-conscious innocence, never wielding it as a weapon.
Claude, the father, was painfully cool. He drove a Triumph Spitfire at 80 mph through the mountains (all of us Olmsted kids drove with him at least once and talked about it for years). For all we know, this behavior could have been the result of an adolescent paroxysm of a man in mid-life crisis. He only came up a few weekends, if I remember correctly. I doubt he could handle the dearth of adult male companionship there as my own Dad, of course, had been left back in New York, and my Aunt Francoise’s husband, Rene, was supposedly considered indispensable to the orthopedic clinic he ran back in Montpellier. In reality his marriage to my aunt was starting to unravel and he already had a mistress.
What we had were three mothers and eighteen kids, five of whom were doing a poor job of becoming magically fluent in French that summer, despite all of my mother’s cherished hopes. (The story of why we weren’t already bilingual is too long and tortured to delve into here. Suffice to say, Mom tried.) At ten, I was on the cusp of puberty and already confused by the nature of the inchoate stirrings that made me far more interested in spending time with the handsome and effortlessly masculine--at eleven --Jean Rene Cambournac, than in his equally coltish and striking sisters.
More often than not, I found myself shying away from too much contact with the summer tribe of endless kids. I enjoyed instead being the kitchen helper to the three French women. Although certainly my mother and aunt adored me and appreciated my desire to learn French, they were no doubt somewhat relieved that I couldn’t understand what the hell they were saying, as it gave them some precious time with other adult women, to dish and discuss world events. Colette Cambournac--pregnant with her ninth child--probably enjoyed the break from her own kids the most. To her I probably held consistent charm because my mother didn’t bother to translate anything I said in English that was obnoxious or annoying.
I can’t quite imagine why my mother decided to indulge the ridiculous and persistent yen I suddenly had to own a pair of espadrilles. She certainly could not have imagined the vaguely sexual allure they held for me. She could not know that they were the closest I could come to the featureless white footwear worn by Johnny Quest, an animated character I had had a crush on from the first grade. Johnny was blond, and wore a turtleneck, and got into all sorts of dangerous adventures with his best friend, Hadji. Johnny was motherless, and his square-jawed Dad was rarely around. Jean-Rene and Claude were Johnny Quest and his Dad come to life.
I couldn’t have articulated it, but I thought somehow the espadrilles would magically confer on me the masculinity of Johnny Quest, or at least the possibility of becoming Jean Rene’s Hadji-like sidekick. For sure they would have set me apart from my sandaled first cousins--effete to my American boy's eyes. (The Cambournacs no doubt wore sandals as well, but I remember them as going barefoot and walking on gravel. If anyone was effete it was the tender-footed American contingent constituted by myself and my siblings, the ones who wanted ketchup and soda and were hopeless clods at soccer. We couldn’t even manage the most basic French insult, although to our advantage we were immune to the insults directed toward us and could make our cousins feel quite self-conscious as we bantered back and forth in English. The ultra-cool Cambournac kids, for their part, seemed completely oblivious to such theatrics.)
Though the three mothers were forced to spend most of their time preparing food for all the hungry mouths to feed, it was their vacation too, and once in a while they managed a swim in the lake or an hour with a book under a tree. So it was a great surprise to me when one of them agreed to squeeze in a trip to the local village so I could get my espadrilles.
I also did not know that espadrilles were absurdly cheap. The price of 3 Francs, 60 centimes somehow remains lodged in my mind (about 75 cents back then). However, as that constituted about 50% of the budget allotted weekly for the Olmsted kids for anything besides food, it qualified as a luxury. (It wasn’t until adulthood that I recognized how brave—foolhardy to some--my mother was to take five children to France for an entire summer on a shoestring budget. To this day she can’t quite understand how she did it, either psychologically or logistically, not to mention financially.)
So, it happened that Colette Cambournac, not quite as glamorous as Jackie Kennedy but with that easy nurturing quality that makes French women world-class mothers, took me into the little hamlet of Salle Curran to get espadrilles. No one but me seemed to be concerned that she spoke not a word of English and that my French was largely confined to a memorized children’s rhyme about capturing a mouse, dipping it in oil, and making snails out of it. I imagine for Colette, who chatted on quite amiably in the car, for all I know about the price of foodstuffs in Equatorial New Guinea, it was a blessed parentheses from the hurly burly of rearing a veritable litter with another one on the way.
I do remember the shoe salesman being rather flummoxed at my request because espadrilles were considered rather more appropriate to fifty-five year old men than ten-year old boys. Being French, he had no compunction making his opinion known, but also being French, Colette had no difficulty telling the salesman politely but firmly to wrap them up.
I have the vague sense that when we left, we had an ice-cream or an orangina in a café, but what was more remarkable is what I don’t remember. I don’t remember Colette going shopping for anything else but a few loaves of bread. Pretty much the trip into town was to buy aquamarine espadrilles for me, not because I needed them but simply because I wanted them.
Fast forward to 30 years later. I find myself at North Kern State prison, Delano, California, C-block during our twice weekly Yard, which for me at least, consists of 12 or so revolutions around the gravel track surrounding a grassy expanse on which we may sit but not walk I have a few “friends” in the block, but they mostly take the time to do push ups or pull-ups on the steel exercise bars and I prefer the solitude in any case. I would actually rather stay on my bunk during Yard, reading or napping, but the food is actually decent up here, and I’m wary of emerging from my prison stint with what I call “jaily-belly,” so I take the opportunity to expend some calories. The only annoyance is that my prison issue “flapjacks” - the left one at least - keeps coming off my heel. (Ironically this is precisely what happened to my French-issued espadrilles of so many years ago.)
As I pause every 50 paces or so to pull the heel of the shoe over the heel of my foot, I am befriended by a heavy-set guy with a crew cut and mustache, the standard look for a “wood,” or white inmate. He immediately proffers his services.
“Can’t keep your shoe on, hunh?”
“Nah.”
“I can fix that for you. Give me ten minutes when we get back inside, I’ll put a lace on it.”
I have actually observed this solution on the footwear of inmates around me, as. I am endlessly fascinated by the astounding array of ingenious solutions to the privations of prison life that I have witnessed here. But rarely do I avail myself of any of them. Aware that most everything in here comes at a price, I do a little bartering for his service.
“Extra,” as he is known, will tighten up my shoe and give me a full tube of toothpaste, in return for a book for stamps. He explains to me he needs the stamps not because he is a prolific correspondent, but rather because he’s a devotee of nicotine, and with a book of stamps he can purchase a “bullet,” or a portion of tobacco that will yield 7-10 cigarettes, depending on the generosity with which they are rolled.
Not too much later, in the Day Room, Extra approaches me with his contraband razor and laces, which are thin strips sliced from blue state-issued bed sheets. With the razor he cuts small holes in the espadrilles, which he then laces through and draws tight.
By this time I am trying to determine if his nickname comes from a) the “extra” pounds he carries b) his proficiency at obtaining “extra” stuff via barter and ingenuity or c) the likelihood of an “extra” chromosome of some sort that would explain why each of his eyes seems to stare in different directions at the same time.
I remember the last time I was in a similar position 30 years and lifetime ago, at a village shoe store in southern France, and it occurs to me that I would be hard put to find two more diametrically opposed people in my own lifetime that Colette Cambournac and Extra, with whom I am attempting to engage in a modicum of intelligent conversation as he repairs my espadrilles.We have touched upon inmate politics, which always revolve around the races getting along.
Extra, managing, it seems to me, to look with one eye at the task at hand and with the other directly at me, offers his thoughts on the topic. “It’s all about respect, dog. I respect you, you respect me, we respect each other; and that way we all get along.”
Colette Cambournac died last year of cancer. Had I been able to speak to her before her death I doubt very much that she would have even remembered going into town with me that day, and even if she had, would almost certainly have had no memory of what she chatted about as we drove along, me quite uncomprehending.
But as Extra leaves me to go to his bunk for the tube of toothpaste, it occurs to me that it would not be out of the realm of possibility that 37 years ago that summer, Colette may have been sharing some life insight about something we may have witnessed together on the street, or even about the intra-familial tension being experienced between cousins divided by an ocean and a language but united by two sisters who adored each other and all of us unconditionally. Although she wouldn’t have addressed me as "dog," she might well have called me “cheri” or "mon beau," while telling me it was all about respect, and if we respected each other we could all get along.
MCO 2004